Between Portpatrick on the west coast of Scotland and Cockburnspath in the east there lies a pathway that attracts the bold and adventurous.
It's called the Southern Upland Way and it's a popular walking route for people who like a challenge. Among them is actor Iain Robertson who has previously charted his journey along the gruelling West Highland Way, but who now turns his attention to this much longer 214-mile route. It's a trip that pushes him physically and mentally, but one that provides him with unusual and breath-taking rewards.
In the first episode of Iain Robertson Rambles, he is joined by his friend and fellow actor Joe McFadden. The pair, who played brothers in the 1995 film Small Faces, undertake the first stage of the walk together. With 13.6 miles to trek on day one they need to stay focussed, but the route provides the pals with points of interest from the get-go, including a beautiful bay and a cable house that once connected Scotland to Northern Ireland.
As the days go on Iain continues on his walk alone, struggling with heat and battling against seemingly ever-present flies, but his spirits are lifted when he reaches the summit of Ben Brack. At the top of the hill Iain discovers a large sculpture, known as The Striding Arch. This striking monument is one of a handful by artist Andy Goldsworthy, which make up a separate local walking trail.
Stargazers will find the wide open spaces of southern Scotland to be pretty much perfect for discovering celestial bodies, but here there's no need to wait for darkness to enjoy the wonders of the night skies. Near the town of Sanquhar, Iain stops off at Crawick Multiverse, a landscaped art installation created by Charles Jencks. The architect has transformed the site of a former mine into a representation of the universe, complete with stone features depicting galaxies and black holes. “I’m smitten with this place,” says Iain. “I will absolutely without a doubt be back.”
The Southern Upland Way takes Iain through a changing landscape of hills, fields and forests, with the latter providing welcome relief from the sun on scorching-hot days. But in the Scottish countryside you're never too far from a cracking view, and it is arguably the hilltops that showcase the most breath-taking scenery.
Iain finds himself stunned to a standstill in many locations along the route. "I love it when you look at the map and you think, that’s fine, no big shakes, and then you come here and you see [the scenery] and it kind of takes your breath away," he says.
"For me that’s what hill climbing and long walks [are] all about. It’s about just looking at the landscape and just being enthralled by it and being speechless. And when it does that, it’s magic."
One of the more extraordinary landscapes Iain rambles past is the Craigmichan Scar. This large and steep-sided glen is a must-see for geologists, a visible throwback to an event that took place in the Silurian period. Here walkers can see for themselves where the continents containing land that would become Scotland and England collided together 425 million years ago.
Many other locations of historical interest are found on the route, although one in in Innerleithen is more genteel than those in the wilds. As Iain wends his way eastwards he drops in to Traquair House, the oldest inhabited house in Scotland. The site dates back to 1107 and has played host to numerous VIPs in the intervening years. Twenty seven kings and queens, including Mary, Queen of Scots, have been welcomed into the home, which has been owned by the Stuart family since 1491.
Not far from Traquair Iain passes a stone marking the Cheese Well which is said to be the site of an unusual ancient folk custom. "Travellers used to leave cheese to placate the fairies of the hills," explains Iain. "But the rangers have said that they don't want the fairies getting hooked on the cheese and scavenging and becoming reliant." Instead, passers-by are encouraged to leave the fairies some silver in place of dairy delights.
On day 19, during the final stretch of the walk, Iain finally spies the North Sea. He pauses near Cove harbour, which some say is the spiritual end of the Southern Upland Way. A view of the seaside is always a welcome sight, but this is a huge moment for Iain.
"I walked all the way from Portpatrick on the west coast, only 20 miles from Ireland, and here I am now on the east coat at the North Sea, and look at it, just look at it! "When you've come on a long journey all the way from the other coast at the Atlantic ocean to see this it makes it a wee bit more special than if you just drive doon here for the day," he says. "It makes it unforgettable."
Inspired by Iain's rambles? Plan your own journey along the Southern Upland Way.